How to Choose a Vintage Cartier

Buying a vintage Cartier is less about chasing hype and more about knowing the lines, size, and condition you want — and talking with a seller you trust. Below are short tips from KOKO WATCH. They do not replace professional authentication; they help you ask the right questions.

1. Decide on the line and size first

  • Tank Must / vermeil: classic rectangle, gold-over-silver look; common SM / LM (many LM pieces in our shop around 23×31mm — check the product page)
  • Santos / Octagon: octagonal bezel, more structured presence; check whether an SM or similar smaller size suits your wrist

Start with our Tank Must Vermeil intro and Santos Octagon intro.

2. Condition: plating, dial, case

  • Vermeil: large areas of silver showing through, and whether scratches hurt the overall look
  • Dial: printing, lume, and colour change (e.g. tropical) — are they acceptable to you?
  • Case and strap / bracelet: wear on edges, screws, and end-pieces

Age marks are normal on vintage watches. What matters is honest description and clear photos.

3. Movement and function

Product pages state quartz vs mechanical and known running condition. After decades, timekeeping, water resistance, and parts can differ from a new watch — we do not claim Cartier factory service or a lifetime warranty; rely on that watch’s notes and our conversation.

4. Authenticity and provenance: we inspect — we are not the brand

Fakes and modified watches exist, so clear communication matters. KOKO WATCH is not an authorised Cartier retailer. We inspect and describe the pieces we list; we do not call that “official authentication.”

If you have questions about a watch — hallmarks, movement, condition — please DM us before you decide.

5. Questions worth asking before you buy

  • Actual case size, thickness, and strap / bracelet length for your wrist?
  • Original box, papers, or later spare parts? (Presence or absence — trust the product page)
  • Known scratches, plating wear, or service marks?
  • Payment and pickup / shipping? (See FAQ or ask us directly)

Ready? Browse the Cartier Tank and Cartier Santos collections, or contact us. For common policy questions, see the FAQ.

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